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Essaouira has developed from a hippie hangout to become a top Morocco beach resort with good surfing conditions. Its 18th-century medina is almost European in feel and narrow streets lead under low arches past fragrant spice stalls and local artisans selling everything from wood carvings to faience pottery.

Dotted around the souk are many traditional-style riads on Booking.com, hidden behind tiled façades and blue doors. Other Essaouira accommodation options include luxury hotels with swimming pools, cheap apartments, and B&Bs near Essaouira Airport.

Also bright blue are the rowing boats bobbing gently in small harbours sheltered by the Scala of the Port, a wide walkway with ramparts through which several historic cannons poke out. At the end is the Citadel, a small fortress overlooking Mogador Island - the largest of the Iles Purpuraires, so-called for the purple shells found in their rocks that were once used to produce dyes for Roman senator togas.

Another fortress – Bordj El Berod – lies in pieces on the long, sandy beach south of the marina. In the opposite direction the coastline is more rocky and lined by the Scala of the Kasbah, the crenellated walls protecting the medina. Horseriding and camel safaris are available on the beach and you can also visit a Berber village inland.